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PETG Settings

PETG runs hotter, stickier and slower than PLA. What to change, and why.

PETG is usually the second filament people try, and it goes badly because it is printed as if it were hot PLA. It is a different material with four settings that move in the opposite direction.

What changes, and why

It sticks harder — much harder. PETG bonds chemically to bare PEI and to glass. That is not adhesion, it is welding, and forcing the part off takes the plate surface with it. The fix is to reduce adhesion deliberately: a glue-stick release layer, a textured plate, or a slightly higher first layer.

It strings. PETG's melt is more viscous and it oozes. Retraction helps, but drying the spool first helps far more, and tuning retraction on a wet spool is how people spend a weekend achieving nothing.

It wants less squish. PLA likes a first layer pressed thin. PETG pressed thin welds to the plate and leaves ridges the nozzle then drags through.

It wants slower. Not for quality — for layer bonding. PETG's strength advantage over PLA only appears if the layers actually fuse.

Setting PLA habit PETG
Plate adhesion Maximise Deliberately reduce
First layer squish Firm Lighter
Speed Fast Slower
Part cooling Full Reduced

The cooling one surprises people

PLA prints best with the fan at 100%. PETG cooled that hard gets weak, delaminating layers — the fan freezes each layer before the next can bond into it. Somewhere around a third to a half is the usual starting point, and overhangs are the trade-off.

What you get for the trouble

Roughly 80 °C of heat resistance against PLA's 60, real toughness instead of brittleness, and outdoor durability PLA does not have. The pages below take one symptom at a time, starting with the spool rather than the slicer.

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