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Drying & Storage

Moisture is the failure nobody photographs. How to measure it and fix it.

Wet filament is the failure that gets blamed on everything else. Stringing, popping, weak layers, rough surfaces — all get chased through retraction settings first, and the spool is the cause more often than the settings are.

What moisture actually does

Filament absorbs water from the air. At the nozzle that water flashes to steam, blows the extrudate apart from the inside, and leaves a foamed, rough, weak strand. The audible pop or hiss during extrusion is that steam.

You cannot tune this out. A dry spool at bad settings prints better than a wet spool at perfect ones.

Not all filaments care equally

Material Absorption Drying
PLA Mild 45–50 °C
PETG Moderate 60–65 °C
ABS / ASA Moderate 70–80 °C
Nylon Severe 70–80 °C
TPU High 50–55 °C

Nylon can pick up enough moisture to be unprintable in a single humid afternoon on the bench. PLA takes weeks and shows it mildly.

The rule that sets every temperature

Dry below the glass transition temperature. Above it the filament softens and the coils fuse into a solid block that will not feed — a spool destroyed more thoroughly than moisture would have managed.

That is the argument against a kitchen oven: domestic ovens cycle their elements and overshoot the set point by tens of degrees, which is invisible when baking and fatal at 55 °C.

Drying is the repair. Storage is the fix.

A dried spool left on the bench is back where it started within days. Sealed container, fresh desiccant, and the desiccant regenerated rather than assumed — silica gel that has been in a box for a year is doing nothing at all.

The pages below cover the method, the temperatures, and the equipment question.

4 articles